Hornsea sits on the Holderness coast, a small East Yorkshire town with a wide, sandy beach, a proper promenade, and the Mere just inland. Bed and breakfasts here tend to have two sorts of rooms: those that look out over the sea, and those that look over a garden, courtyard or planted yard at the back. Both are usually comfortable, both are usually quiet, and both come with a decent cooked breakfast. The difference between them shows up in the small hours and again at breakfast time, and it is worth thinking about properly before you book.
Rooms facing the sea in Hornsea almost always face east or north-east. That means light, and plenty of it. In late June, first light arrives before 5am and the sun comes up straight out of the North Sea. For early risers, photographers and anyone who likes the idea of watching a fishing boat or a tanker slide past while the kettle boils, it is hard to beat.
It also means sound. Waves on a calm day are a gentle background hum, but a north-easterly blow will make itself known, and herring gulls start their rounds well before the alarm goes off. Windows in older seaside properties can be single-glazed sashes that rattle in a stiff breeze, and salt spray leaves a film on the glass within a day or two. You may also meet the sea fret — a damp coastal fog that can roll in off the water in summer and hide the view entirely for an afternoon.
What you gain is drama, horizon and weather. Storms in October and November are genuinely spectacular from a sea-facing window, and there is something quietly civilised about eating breakfast while the tide moves.
Garden rooms are usually at the back of the building, away from the promenade, the road and the worst of the wind. You will hear blackbirds and sparrows rather than gulls, and a mature hedge or a wall does a surprising amount to soften traffic noise.
The light is different in a way that suits many people better. A west or south-west facing room warms up through the afternoon and holds the heat into the evening, while staying dimmer at dawn. If you like a lie-in, that is a real advantage. These rooms are often a little cheaper, and sometimes a little larger for the same money, because the view is the thing being traded away. You are still two or three minutes from the sand.
There is no universally better choice, only a better choice for you. A rough guide:
A few minutes on the phone or in an email will save you a week of mild irritation. Ask directly:
If you take the sea view, pack an eye mask if you are sensitive to light, and consider earplugs for the gull chorus. Leave the window open a crack on mild nights, and take a flask of tea out to the promenade for sunrise — it is a short walk and worth the effort. If you take the garden view, use the money you have saved on a decent dinner in town, and remember that the sea is not going anywhere. Walk down after breakfast, when the beach is at its quietest, and you will get the best of both worlds anyway.
The honest answer is that both room types in a Hornsea bed and breakfast will give you a comfortable bed, a warm welcome and a proper Yorkshire breakfast. Pick the light and the soundtrack you want to wake up to, and you will have chosen well.
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